Petersham vs. Grosgrain: The Milliner’s Ribbon Showdown

By Michael P Hoyle, Hoyle Hat Co. – Seattle’s Downtown Hat Shop

When it comes to fine hats, every detail matters. The felt, the block, the brim — and yes, even the ribbon. At Hoyle Hat Co., we’ve spent years sourcing and working with the best materials in the world, and one question we hear often in our shop is:

“What’s the difference between Petersham and Grosgrain ribbon?”

Today, we’re pulling back the curtain to give you a deep dive into these two classic ribbons, why they matter, and why the right choice can make or break a hat’s fit and finish.

The Two Heavyweights of Hat Ribbon

In millinery, Petersham and Grosgrain are both ribbed ribbons, often black, but available in every color under the sun. At first glance, they might look the same — but the construction and performance are night and day.

1. Petersham Ribbon

• Signature Look: Soft, slightly matte texture with scalloped (picot) edges.

• Flexibility: Can be steamed, stretched, and curved without puckering.

• Best Use: Brim binding, sweatbands, and hat interiors that need to follow a curve.

• Why Milliners Love It: It’s the only ribbon that can gracefully conform to the rounded and angled shapes of a fine hat.

Pro Tip: If you run your finger along the edge of Petersham, you’ll feel a gentle wave rather than a hard, cut edge. That’s the scallop — and it’s the secret to its flexibility.

2. Grosgrain Ribbon

• Signature Look: Crisp, slightly shinier finish with straight, sealed edges.

• Flexibility: Stiffer; does not curve easily without wrinkling.

• Best Use: Decorative hat bands, bows, clothing trims, belts, and packaging.

• Why It’s Limited for Hats: It looks sharp, but try wrapping it around a curved brim and it will fight you the whole way.

Pro Tip: Grosgrain shines in straight-line applications. On hats, we use it purely as an accent — never for brim binding.

Why Hoyle Hat Co. Chooses Petersham for Brims

Seattle’s damp climate, daily wear, and the natural movement of a hat mean materials must be both beautiful and functional. Grosgrain’s stiffness can cause puckering, which disrupts the clean silhouette of a custom hat. Petersham, on the other hand, moves with the felt, maintaining a flawless line and lasting shape.

At Hoyle Hat Co., we only use true millinery-grade Petersham for brim binding and internal sweatbands. It’s an old-world detail you’ll feel every time you put on one of our hats — smooth comfort, no pressure points, and a curve that looks effortless.

How to Spot the Difference in the Shop

Next time you visit us in downtown Seattle, ask to see both ribbons side-by-side:

1. Look at the edges — scalloped (Petersham) vs. straight (Grosgrain).

2. Bend the ribbon — Petersham curves gracefully, Grosgrain resists.

3. Feel the texture — Petersham is softer and more supple; Grosgrain feels more rigid.

Why This Detail Matters to Your Hat

Hats are a sum of their parts. Choosing Petersham over Grosgrain for the functional parts of a hat is like choosing leather over plastic for a fine shoe — it’s not just about looks, it’s about performance and longevity.

A true custom hat is built to last decades. That’s why at Hoyle Hat Co., every ribbon, stitch, and detail is chosen with purpose.

Final Word from the Hat Bar

The next time you see a beautifully bound brim or a perfectly fitted sweatband, there’s a good chance Petersham is behind it. While Grosgrain will always have its place in fashion and decoration, Petersham remains the milliner’s gold standard for hats that are built to be worn, loved, and passed down.

So when you’re in Seattle, stop by Hoyle Hat Co., order your favorite drink at our Hat Bar, and let us show you the difference up close. One touch, and you’ll understand why Petersham will always win the hatmaker’s ribbon showdown.

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